February 17, 2009 |
Short Order
From my porthole overlooking the pounding surf in Lala Land, I see the blogs are all atwitter over New York burgers, the passion that knows no season. The truth is, when I feel the need, I don’t waste my mouth on a trifling low-end generic. I want a proud, compelling burger – caramelized, rare and juicy, like 5 Napkin’s iconic hunk or the Brooklyn Diner’s proud beauty. Fairway Café’s meaty dinner burger, $12 with two toppings – I like well-done bacon and grilled onions – is as low-end as I go. Tales of the Corner Bistro have never drawn me to the West Village and now, with Bruni’s report, I’m even less sure I need to check it out. I tasted the beloved Shake Shack just once. It was fun nibbling it al fresco with fries in lush, leafy Madison Park on a vibrant spring day, but thin, too cooked, and with that pickle tucked in the middle, it tasted like an adolescent White Castle on hormones. Good enough for kids who aren’t ready to grow up.
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